Thursday, March 31, 2022

elegance and extravagance / ancient rituals in the digital age

we participated in three events woven into the Big Indian Wedding extravaganza that brought us to Bengaluru – all amazing and fascinating and intertwined. my understanding of the various activities and their significance is, at best, rudimentary so i invite you to web-search any aspect that piques your curiosity.

 

we were invited, first, to the home of the groom's parents for a HALDI and DEVARA SAMARADHANE. while Haldi is common across India, the Devara Samaradhane (the prayers that are offered) is more local to south Indians and especially to Brahmin castes. the Haldi ceremony, a ritual "holy bath", involves applying turmeric powder to the bride and groom. sometimes thrown, sometimes scattered, in this case it was quite calmly, and with great love, daubed on the couple's faces, hands and feet by many women present at the event. turmeric (the Haldi) is considered auspicious and is used in many aspects of Indian life – in this instance, to cleanse and purify, to prepare the bride and groom for their prospective union and for a prosperous future life together. because the groom's parents come from different religious traditions, the ceremony integrated Catholic blessings along with traditional Hindu ones. the Catholic ceremony The Roce is comparable to the Haldi and involves anointing the bride and groom with coconut milk. 

women appeared to be in charge of most of the ritual activities of the day. 

while all this was going on, there was a crew of men in the street building a remarkable 4 pillared archway out of coconut leaves that are woven together in a fabulous pattern. this type of arch, the MANAVARAI, is sometimes constructed from just coconut leaves and their spines. other times, as happened here, the patterned coconut leaves are affixed to a metal framework which is then adorned with hundreds of fresh flowers (which also adorn the house doorway and the altars used in the ceremonies). pieces of this structure get blessed as it's made and it signifies to passersby, and to the whole world at large, that a wedding is underway.


in addition to witnessing the ritual, it was the first time i was in the midst of a large social gathering of Indians (75+ family and friends). i was very plugged in, adrenalized in social mode, and my sensory apparati were firing on all cylinders. it was hot in the house (to be fair, it was HOT EVERYWHERE, often 90+ degrees). there was food cooking somewhere which smelled divine. there was a swirling spectrum of vibrant rainbow saris. there were hundreds and hundreds of fresh flowers everywhere. and i was bathed in the sounds of Kannada (a south Indian dialect ) along with the lyrical music of Indian-accented English. after the ceremony, lunch was served on a roof terrace - a fabulous sampler of south Indian delights served in tiny portions so we could experience a full panoply of tastes.


along with the ubiquitous army of personal smartphones, there were professional video and photography crews at each event. in this way, the ancient traditions got counterbalanced by contemporary digital reality. the room was crowded with tripods, lens and lights. and it seemed almost more important that the cameras "see" the event than those of us who'd come to witness. digital photos and video will be around in perpetuity while memory is often short and temporary.


lunch was followed by MEHNDI body art for anyone who wanted to get henna painted as this, too, is an ancient practice associated with the wedding ceremony. 

it was a moving day of bonding: the bride and groom to each other and the families and friends to one another.


bowls of flowers and petals everywhere


garlands decorating doorways - fresh flowers, baby pineapples, and unbloomed lotuses


preparing the space


more preparation


cornucopia of rainbow bracelets


table full of ceremonial elements


tiny flame of puja


groom receiving turmeric


bindi'd and bedecked bride beauty


double namaste


sarees supreme, bride towers behind


magnificent mehndi


completion beneath the manavarai (see coconut leaf weaving on the left)


what the whole day felt like




















Friday, March 25, 2022

sorry, no saree (aka sari) / the Nine Yard Wonder

Sarees or saris, the name for the traditional women's garment in India, have been around for thousands of years. Cotton was first cultivated here in 5th century BC. and eventually began to be woven. sometime after, it became the custom to drape and wrap 9 yards of it around women's bodies and this style of dress has been evolving ever since. 

Several events involved in the wedding extravaganza i've come to India to attend were listed as "formal" or "semi-formal". these are not (as many of you know) words that my clothes closet understands. other non-Indian ladies who were traveling from afar made it known they were planning to be fitted with, and to purchase, authentic sarees – in accord with the When In Rome, Do As The Romans maxim. i thought i might do that as well. 

once here however, i began to have second thoughts. the sarees we see on Indian woman are extraordinary - incredibly diverse in color, texture, fabric and wrap style. all, im sure, dependent on class and means. for those with resources, there are Daily Sarees and probably special sarees for every occasion. the streets are a RIOT of color with women bustling everywhere in their amazing garb. 

the special occasion sarees in the stores looked really STIFF to me and i was increasingly afraid i'd feel tight and stuck like a hotdog in a bun. also, in spite of what EVERYONE here has told me - i have polled many Indian people about this - i felt a tiny bit like wearing a saree as a white woman might feel like an appropriation. SO i decided – sorry, no saree. instead, i purchased some amazing fabrics to integrate Indian flavor into my own wardrobe.

After attending the first event where most of the grown women were in a sarees, i actually felt FINE. no one was critical. and some people actually complimented my style. so i decided to carry on being me.

9 facts about the 9 yard wonder

























Wednesday, March 23, 2022

stalled revelations

as many of you know, i am not much of a clothing shopper – except 2nd hand stores and thrift shops about which i am avid. i love the feeling of clothing that's been broken in, clothing that is already a little soft, clothing with some history. hence, traveling across the globe to a wedding (that IS why i'm in india) which includes some semi-formal events posed a challenge: would anything from my relaxed and uber-bohemian closet make the grade? also, quite specifically, Andrew would need a suit for one of the events and, quite specifically, Andrew has not owned a suit in YEARS. plus i have long history of body image issues (much healing AND still some leftovers) and inherited shopping trauma (my mother always made clothing shopping very fraught - for herself and, i suspect, for me).

hence, after a LOT of consultation with lovely and supportive fashionistas (SO grateful to Moss for constant feedback/suggestions and to Anne Aronov for LENDING me some key items), i arrived in India with more clothing than i have ever carried ANYWHERE. and with a MISSION: to SHOP for Andrew's suit and for a special kind of silk that i hoped would accessorize/juice up the mix and match outfits i brought with me. i was still considering buying a saree (aka sari) but hadn't yet decided.

although lots of people (indians and tourists alike) take cabs, me and Andrew like to walk. it is definitely how i get a feel for a place. inside a closed vehicle, i mainly get a feel for traffic - of which there is a constant TON here in Bengaluru. there are a TON of little motorized 3-wheeled open air cabs called RICKSHAWS that clog the streets. also a TON of motorcycles which Andrew has dubbed The Family Car because of how many people get squeezed onto one seat. 

during our second full day of exposure - traffic, people density, dirt & pollution, new sounds sights smells tastes languages AND 90degree heat - we were quite overwhelmed. when we ended up in a department store where Andrew was trying on suits, i found a toilet and during that quiet moment of respite, i had a revelation: patience is a huge spiritual lesson being delivered by India. nothing happens quickly. communication can be scattershot. my expectations must be constantly tempered, readjusted, and softened. i emerged from the stall feeling a lot more space, for myself and for India...

saree i am not buying for 550$

black robed motorcyle mama


sidesaddle rider 



andrew's masked magnum look (ode to zoolander)

  

     what i really wish andrew were wearing to the wedding

garlands galore: the actual nuptials and post-party

as i mentioned in a previous post, professional camera crews (video and stills) dominated the landscape at all these wedding-ish events. lig...